My new wide-leg Closet Case Ginger Jeans (newly renamed Closet Core) were destined to be paired with a white linen Kalle Shirt from the first moment they popped into my mind. I’ve never had a linen button up shirt before, never mind a white one, so I’m not sure where the vision for this outfit came from, but I’m happy I decided to make it.
Original, I planned a 100% white linen version with stand collar and hidden button placket. But I under bought this 5.5 oz. softened linen from Blackbird Fabrics (I only bought one metre). The lovely weight of it also proved to be too much for the multi-layered hidden placket – both happy accidents because I love the way it turned out.
- Kalle size 6, stand collar version (me at the time of making this shirt B34.5/W28/H35)
- Lengthened the front by 1 inch
- Added two pockets instead of one and moved the pocket placement up by 1.25 inches
- Interfaced some scrap butterfly-print rayon for the facing (interfaced to make the butterflies less obvious from the right side)
Even though it wasn’t my original plan, the facing has turned out to be my favourite part of this shirt. The print is slightly visible from the outside but I love the secret butterflies that only appear if the shirt moves the right way. I chose to serge the raw edge of the facing rather than turn it under because I did not want the right side of the print to sit against the linen.
I also don’t mind the button placket because I found five matching white mother of pearl buttons in my stash that feel like they were meant to be visible. I did prep the hidden placket, but I found it to be excessively bulky with the weight and thickness of the linen and I worried it would pull on the front too much so I cut it down to a regular placket.
The double front pockets are for bra coverage because the linen is not complete opaque. I also moved the pockets up by 1.25 inches so they sit more over my bust, rather than under. I probably should have thought to compensate for my scoliosis and moved the right pocket up a bit since it looks lower when I wear it… but I didn’t and I don’t feel like trying to mess with it now.
This is my third Kalle and my first in a weightier fabric. I’m really happy with how it came out. It’s a perfect summer shirt with good sun coverage for my back, shoulders and upper chest and it goes perfectly with my summer Ginger Jeans. It was a nice easy project that I took my time completing. The inside is entirely clean finished with flat felled side seams and enclosed seam allowances for all but the facing. And now my summer look, sorted…though I love it so much I might have to make this shirt and pants combo again in other colours!
It’s been a little while since I last worked with linen and I enjoyed it, though it does have a tendency to fray. This 5.5 oz. softened linen is indeed quite soft but also has quite a bit of weight and a heavy drape. I think it works beautifully for this pattern, though as I mentioned, not for the hidden placket because it just has too much thickness. I made sure to grade all the seams and didn’t have any issues with the thickness otherwise.
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