Wiksten Haori – Slim fit

My first Wiksten Haori – reversible with one linen side and one hemp/cotton side

As much as I like the idea of my first Wiksten Haori, it’s just not the ideal shape for me. I made the smallest size but it is still feels huge in not a good way. I leave it at work and only wear it when I have to go downstairs for meetings in the cold conference rooms.

Since I made it back in May, I’ve had a plan to revisit it with a slimmer fit. Then the weather began to get colder, and Blackbird Fabrics had a 25% off sale where I picked up some boiled wool and viscose in black, and suddenly I found the inspiration I’d been waiting for. The fabric arrived on a Friday and I finished it on Saturday afternoon, including washing and drying the fabric and making my pattern modifications.

Black is, as usual, incredibly difficult to photograph and I made it worse by running out of daylight because it is winter and also because of the aforementioned finishing this in one day. I’ve brightened the crap out of these photos to try to make it visible!

Modifications

  • Started with the XXS short version of the Haori with large length (the pattern pieces from my first version)
  • Folded out three inches of width from shoulder to hem on both the front and back pattern pieces
  • Cut the back pattern pieces separately rather than on fold
  • Added approximately 12 inches of length to both the front and back pieces to bring them to my knee length (I’m 161 cm or 5′ 3.5″)
  • Slimmed the sleeves by about 3/4 of an inch
  • Widened the collar piece to six inches and only cut out two pieces (rather than four)
  • Did not interface the collar piece
  • Eased the body (stretched the collar) between the two shoulder seams to make use of the stretch of the fabric and keep the collar from bagging around the neck
  • Sewed the whole thing with 1/2 inch lapped seams, stitched on both the right and wrong sides
  • Added angled patch pockets
  • Left all edges raw and did not hem or line it

This version is significantly slimmer than my last one – over 12 inches slimmer in fact. It makes a big difference to how I feel in it. It is still a loose fit but it doesn’t drown me. It’s incredibly cozy too. It was six degrees Celcius and pouring rain when I took these photos on my deck and I wasn’t even cold.

I originally added a belt and belt loops but it looked too robe-like so I removed them. Now it’s basically just a cozy blanket and I love it. I added one my new Handmade by Lindsay Janeane labels to it, which is fun just for it’s own sake but also quite helpful because lapped seams make it really difficult to tell inside from out. It feels sacrilegious not finishing seams or hemming anything but I was happy not to after spending quite a while on the lapped seams.

Much slimmer fit than my last version
Left the sleeves long intentionally so that I could cuff them

The one big downside to this make is that amount of lint and fluff this boiled wool and viscose gives off. My sewing room is covered in little coarse black hairs, which would look very much like a specific type of body hair if they were a little longer (thankfully they aren’t). I have to fully vacuum my sewing room and my sewing machine after this make and I’m a little worried about what it’s going to do to all the clothes I wear it over. Not that it matters. I’m going to wear it anyway.

Patch pockets and lapped seams

Thanks for stopping by!

~ Lindsay

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