Reversible Wiksten Haori

The Wiksten Haori has been out for quite a while but it took three specific occurrences in my life for me to take notice of it this spring.

  1. The temperature of my workplace became a problem as warm weather approached. I started my new job late last summer so was already transitioning into warm fall clothes. As this spring approached and I started to wear dresses sans tights and other garments suitable for the outside weather, I got cold. I needed a versatile cover-up.
  2. My mother-in-law mentioned that she was thinking about the pattern and that got me thinking about it too.
  3. One of my colleagues wore a remarkably similar jacket at work one day and I really liked it on her. I bought the pattern that evening.

My plan for this jacket is to leave it at work as a coverup for days when my outfit doesn’t cut it in the warmth department. Leaving it at work saves me from having to carry extra clothes on my walk to and from, when the outside temperature far exceeds jacket weather.

Based on reviews and versions I saw on Instagram, I decided to cut the short version in XS with the XL length. I wanted it to be as long as possible without sitting on it in meetings.

For versatility with different work clothes, I also decided to make my Haori truly totally reversible. This necessitated a few changes so that each side did not show any of the other’s colour. Mostly this meant removing fold-back parts and adjusting the bottom and sleeve hems. Here are the mods I made:

  1. Reduced the width of the collar to about 2/3 of the original (didn’t interface the collar either but, in hindsight, I should have).
  2. Removed 4-5 inches of length (didn’t measure, just cut) from the sleeve piece and cut both the main and lining sleeves to the same length.
  3. Did not under stitch the hem as instructed. Instead, pressed the seam allowances open before pressing the hem as close to the seam as possible and then top stitched with a black bobbin thread and blue top thread.
  4. Hand sewed the collar lining rather than top stitching.
  5. Added a centre back seam and top stitched all of the seam allowances – no reason for this, I just liked how it looked.

I used mid-weight black linen for one side and light-weight hemp and organic cotton denim for the reverse. Both fabrics were from Blackbird Fabrics and I used just over 1.5 metres of each. I included the pockets on the black side because it felt like the light-weight denim would sag under the weight of my phone (which is mostly what will go in the pockets at work). I lined the pockets with leftover viscose poplin from my Kalle shirt.

Overall, I’m very pleased with how this turned out. It isn’t a super flattering shape… but I knew it wouldn’t be going in. The point was a somewhat polished looking warmth that would work with multiple outfits. I think I succeeded in that. It is is so freaking cozy and comfortable! It feels like a hug to wear. The fabrics give it the polished look I was after, especially the black linen which has a subtle sheen. Both fabrics feel great to wear.

I put it on when it was finished and immediately texted my mother-in-law to tell her I was going to have to make another version for home.

My next version is going to be in natural linen I think. It won’t need to be reversible so I won’t do most of my mods, but I will likely self-line it. I think I will do the fold over collar but will reduce the width at the back by changing the under arm curve. I will probably lengthen the sleeves so they can roll back as a cuff.

Isn’t it fun when something you never considered turns out to be something you love?

Thanks for stopping by!

~ Lindsay

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